Welcome to the Series

Your first summer trip to the alps is a formative moment in many British climber’s careers. Expectation, excitement and healthy apprehension are some among the many emotions you will feel ahead of, and during your trip.

Impostor syndrome is fairly common, understandable, and natural. But, having the right gear, experience, and skills can go some way to calm the nerves and ease your transition into the ‘big hills’. This article series seeks to breakdown not just what you need to bring, but also what you need to know, and what you should have done first, in a ‘packing list’ style article.

Not all recommendations here are universally applicable since the Alps are a vast and varied region, but this article should serve as a good general starting point. Always read ahead, know the intricacies of your route and its requirements, seek out current and general beta, and remember there’s always another trip, but you wont have another life; at least not this one.

Part 1 - Clothing

Part 2 - Technical Gear : Below

Part 3 - Packs, Camp and Bivvy

Part 4 - Skills, Knowledge & Experience

Safety Gear

When thinking essential safety gear for any alpine excursion the first three items which should spring to mind are harness, helmet and headlamp.

Harnesses

In theory any modern rated climbing harness could be commissioned for use in an ‘alpine’ setting. However the reality is that most would be neither comfortable nor hugely functional.

As a starting point, suitable harnesses should be low profile and as lightweight and ‘packable’ as you can get away with. Entry level rock climbing harnesses like a Black Diamond Momentum (302g M) or Petzl Sama (415g M) are neither low profile not lightweight, in addition to lacking a number of valuable features.

Those enjoying non-technical glaciated walk ups, only need their harness to hold their glacier gear and at most be bearably comfortable on a short rappel. The size, position and rigidity of gear loops are largely irrelevant compared to the overall weight of the package. The Petzl Altitude is the lightest harness in this category at (160g M), but this does come at a price. The Black Diamond Couloir (215g M) or Beal Snow Guide (220g M) would be excellent more cost effective choices.

Those embarking on classical alpine routes in the PD+ to AD range will be climbing on largely non-technical terrain with short technical steps. Typically climbers will want to carry a slim nut rack, perhaps a few cams and a handful of quickdraws for such routes. There’s no need to bring a fully featured harness better suited to sustained technical climbing, instead look at harnesses which bridges the gap. Both the Black Diamond AirNET (235g M) and Beal Ghost (250g M) have sturdy front gear loops for organised racking, ice tool clipper slots, and fabric rear gear loops in a slim package.

Someone climbing more technical routes may be racking a large number screws and/or a healthy rock rack. For this, climbers want to look at lightweight rock harnesses, with ice tool clipper slots if required. Ensure the harness retains a good margin of adjustability for varied layering in different conditions. Often this will come in the form of adjustable leg loops, but not necessarily on a well designed harness, the Petzl Sitta (270g M) and Edelrid Ace (277g M) both exemplifying this. Black Diamond’s Technician (376g M) is a good slightly more cost effective option.

Helmets

Look at anyone climbing hard in the Alps and they’re wearing a foam helmet. Although there is some considerably variance between brands and models, most helmets are constructed from an EPS foam with a polycarbonate shell. They offer a significant advantage over now antiquated hardshell helmets which offered poor protection around the rim of the helmet as well as being heavier and sweatier.

Although super light helmets like a Black Diamond Vapor (186g M) look and feel pretty cool, in both senses, they are less resistant to single impacts and general rough handling than hybrid designs. For the average alpine bumbler, foam models are an investment which likely won’t offer a particularly noticeable return on the hill. Instead, hybrid designs which combine a ‘fairly’ hard outer-shell and foam inner, will serve you a good deal longer, vent well enough, and are bearably light. The new Petzl Borea (285g M) is very worthy of consideration.

Most importantly with helmets, ensure they fit your head shape well, and are compatible with any hoods, hats, or goggle/sunglasses you wear. This includes hoods that go over as well as under the helmet. Always try before your buy.

Headlamps

Headlamps are possibly the most under considered pieces of vital safety equipment on your kit list.

You should look to carry two headlamps, a main headlamp and a smaller back-up light for reading maps/topo, around camp and if your main light fails.

Your primary headlamp should clock in at >500 lumen, with at least two functions, ‘beam’ and ‘spotlight’. Modern design features, like reactive lighting, are nice to have but by no means essential. For those looking not to break the bank, the Alpkit Quark (95g) is a fantastic choice. In addition to your main headlamp, a back up light up to ~200 lumen is useful.

When climbing always carry spare lithium batteries, and never use the battery pack in the field. Lithium batteries perform far better in sub-zero conditions than alkaline batteries, and don’t leak corrosive acid all over the battery house. Avoid mixing old/new batteries and different brands. A good tactic is to tape together replacement batteries as packs so they can be inserted as a single brick quickly and easily without confusing which are new and which are old.

Remember, headlamps do have a lifespan, typically no longer than 5 years, and performance will tail off towards the end of this lifespan.

TSP - Transceiver, Shovel & Probe

Not necessary on many routes and even less as the summer draws on, but carrying avalanche rescue gear and being familiar with rescue skills and strategies is prudent for those high on certain snowy objectives early in the season (mid-late May/early June).

Slings and Carabiners

Those only interested in climbing non-technical ascents on snow, can skim this section fairly quickly. However, those climbing routes with short to sustained technical steps will be grateful for an ample selection of slings and carabiners. For readers with a strong rock climbing background, the only surprisingly part will likely be the number of certain items, rather than the items themselves.

These are not recommendations for how many items you and your partner should bring on every ascent, but rather a good number to show up in the Alps with to make sure you’re not short.

For example a pair could quite safely climb many routes with 6 lockers between them both. But bringing 3 lockers to the Alps, hoping your partner will also have 3, and winging it for a month is probably not the best idea.

• 4 x 120cm slings - 6mm/8mm dyneema is light and useful for working with on bad alpine bolts and fixed gear.

• 6 x 60cm slings - 6mm/8mm dyneema racked as extenders.

• 2 x 240cm slings - 6mm/8mm dyneema

• 8m of 6mm accessory cord - Ideal for leaving behind at dodgy in-situ rap stations.

• 3 x Pre-tied prusik loops - 5mm/6mm accessory cord.

• 4 x Lightweight Utility Lockers - Those offering a degree of HMS functionality on skinnier ropes are ideal. CAMP Photon Lock (43g) is an excellent choice. Avoid auto-locking carabiners of any variety, these can freeze shut, or more scarily freeze open!

• 6 x Lightweight Utility Snapgates - Racked bundled for a range of applications. The CAMP Photon Wire (30g) offers a generous internal volume in a light weight package.

• 1 x Round Stock Belay Carabiner - Camp Nimbus Lock (69g) is a good choice.

• 1 x Tube Style Belay Device w/Guidemode - Use with one lightweight utility locker and the belay carabiner.

• 1 x Assisted Braking Device - With dedicated locking carabiner.

• 4 x Maillons - Ideal for leaving behind at dodgy in-situ rap stations. An 8mm link provides the best balance between weight and functionality, read more here.

• 1 x Rope Knife - Light is right, the CRKT NIAD (17g) provides a lighter and more durable pick than the ever popular Petzl Spartha (43g).

Sharp Things

Probably the sexiest and most exiting item on any first Alps kit list are the ice axes, crampons and screws.

Piolet

The piolet or classic walking ice axe is used by those on non-technical snow ascents, as well as those approaching alpine rock climbs. Although shops seem stocked with 65cm+ super long axes, shy away from these, they are heavy, cumbersome and useless on anything but long mellow snowfields.

In the same vein, superlight short ski touring models will feel largely ornamental if you ever have cause to use your piolet. Opt for a solid light weight modern ice axe in the 50cm-60cm range, like a Petzl Summit Evo (429g 59cm).

Ice Tools

As the climbing becomes technical, you will want a pair of proper ice tools. Ice and mixed climbing during the summer months in the Alps is a depleting commodity, but it is still possible high early in the season.

Many climbers approaching alpine rock routes will opt to carry a single moderately technical tool like a Petzl Quark (550g/460g unstripped/stripped) preferring their daggering performance on steep neve.

Carrying a single technical tool on grand courses has the added advantage of meaning their is a pair of technical tool in the team in case sustained steeper ice or mixed is encountered, even if the route is expected to be dry. A popular strategy now on summer ascents of a ‘dry’ Walker Spur.

Crampons

Climbers looking at non-technical routes on snow and classical mountaineering up to AD will do fine with a pair of 12-point crampons with horizontal front points. Nowadays any brand’s offering in this category will come with anti-balling plates, but you can quite effectively craft your own with duct tape if yours are mysteriously lacking. Opt for a pair with a front strap attachment and a step in heel, some brands refer to this combination as ‘semi-automatic’ or ‘C2’. This will allow you far more flexibility in what boots you can choose. For more on choosing boots, see our summer alpine boots buying guide here.

Vertical dual and vertical mono point crampons are generally preferred for technical mixed and good ice. But, as said this is a depleting commodity in the summer alpine season, and it is unlikely that climbers on their first visit to the alps will find themselves on such terrain. Meanwhile, on rotten sublimated ice and neve, horizontal dual front points are more stable and generally preferred due to their broader surface area.

To cut weight, if you can bank on only encountering dry glaciers or soft snow/slush, such as when approaching alpine rock routes, then consider super light options like the Petzl Leopard FL (384g pair).

Ice Screws

For glacial travel a minimum of two screws is necessary. Getting one slightly shorter (12cm-13cm) and one slightly longer (16cm-17cm) is sensible.

If you’re buying screws for glacial travel, whilst Petzl Lazer Speed Light (100g 17cm) and Black Diamond Ultralight (81g 16cm) are attractive lightweight offerings, frankly they’re overkill. Two all steel screws like a Black Diamond Express (146g 16cm) will serve you fine and withstand the beatings or summer alpinism, getting bashed against rocks, mashed against the side of cable car bins etc, far better than lighter offerings.

Rock Gear

If you are a rock climber it’s worth showing up to the alps with a full rack even if you’re unsure whether you’ll be attempting an alpine rock objective, -it’s nice to have the option.

Unless you definitely know you will not be using it, bring a double rack of cams from your smallest ~#0.3 (small blue) or smaller, to #4 (big grey) and perhaps a single #5 (big purple).

There are many alpine rock routes where doubles of #4 and the occasional wide piece such as a #5 can tame pitches. The offwidth pitch on the Charmoz’ Cordier Pillar feels far more reasonable with two #4 for example. Given the weight savings manufacturers have continued to make on these units with updated iterations, and improved ‘rackability’ features like BD’s trigger capture, big pieces are becoming less cumbersome a proposition on long routes.

‘Slim Rack’ for Classic Alpine routes PD+ to AD

• 4-6 x Extendable ‘Alpine’ Quickdraws

• 1 x Single Nut Rack to DMM/Wild Country #9

• Cams:

  • 1 x 0.75 (Green)

  • 1 x 1 (Red)

  • 1 x 2 (Yellow/Gold)

    Some climbers choose to rack their cams ‘key fob style’ on such terrain.

‘Slim Rack’ for Alpine Rock

On many alpine rock objectives it is both desirable and possible to climb with a slim rack since climbers are typically operating well within their physical limits, and on many routes there is a reasonable degree of fixed protection.

• 4-6 x Extendable ‘Alpine’ Quickdraws

• 2-4 x Standard Quickdraws

• 1 x Single Nut Rack to DMM/Wild Country #9

• Cams:

  • 1 x 0.5 (Purple)

  • 1 x 0.75 (Green)

  • 1 x 1 (Red)

  • 1 x 2 (Yellow/Gold)

  • 1 x 3 (Green)

Diet Full Rack for Alpine Rock

A full alpine rock rack should ideally be lighter than your standard rack. There are a number of strategies to achieve this.

Start by phasing out nuts in the sizes where your cams kick in. Next, consider swapping out your standard nut rack for lighter alternatives such as a rack of Metolius Ultralight Curve Nuts or Wild Country Super Light Rocks. Read our nuts buying guide here.

With your cams, carrying alternating doubles is not an unreasonable strategy to shave weight.

Please, leave you hexes at home. But, certain sizes of tricams can be useful in limestone areas such as Dolomites, Cerces and Queyras.

A potentially valuable item which many UK climbers will overlook is a small sky hook like a Black Diamond Cliffhanger. These can be deployed tactically to rest on lead mid pitch, either by hooking small flakes and edges, or recommissioned for use as a fifi hook.

Ropes

On glaciated terrain, the shortest rope you will be able to get away with is 30m. 30m working for a two man team travelling with 15m of rope between them, and each carrying enough rope (~7m) to execute a crevasse rescue sequence. This does not need to be a single rope, a half rope is a lighter acceptable alternative.

Whilst a 30m half is usually adequate for short pitched technical steps, even on straightforward walk ups, climbers may have need for a longer rope to deal with short rappels. The popular Trois Monts Route requires climbers to make two 20m-25m abseils. As such, a skinny 50m half or single is a good to cover all your bases it for those doing low-tech classic alpine routes routes (F - PD+).

For those attempting more technical ice and mixed climbs, half ropes are standard. In the past 50m double lines were common, however now the fashion is to climb on two 60m ropes. As such, many fixed belays and in-situ rap stations are now equipped for full length 60m rappels. Topos can and often are out of date, so even if the topo says a route is equipped for 50m halves, the chances are increasingly likely that it will now be re-equipped for 60m ropes. Moral of the story, buy and bring 60m halves.

Some ‘super-alpinists’ are fond of climbing on a single half rope, but this is generally inadvisable unless you too are blessed with superior genetics, powers of levitation and your own field of gravity which means you fall softer than most.

Many take a similar approach with alpine rock, lugging up two 60m halves, although they need not. If you are climbing on a modern line which doesn’t wander, and is equipped with bolted belays then the option of climbing on a skinny 60m single rope like a Beal Opera (8.5mm) or Mammut Serenity (8.7mm) and carrying a tag line is one you should very much consider. This allows you all the efficiency of climbing on a single rope, with the ability to make full length rappels. You will need to know how to conduct a biner block rappel, but this is a relatively simple skill to master and one which you can practice at home. Just make sure you carry a couple of maillons at all times, it is not uncommon to find abseil stations equipped only with cord.

Whichever rope you decide to go for, ensure any progress capture devices you may be carrying are compatible with you rope.

• Edelrid Spoc: 7mm-10mm

• Petzl MicroTraxion 8mm-11mm

• Petzl TiBloc 8mm-11mm

Crevasse Rescue

Crevasses are often the most common ‘likely fatal’ hazard that most alpine climbers will face. Many climbers make the mistake of carrying all the gear, whilst having no idea of how to use it in anything but a text book perfect scenario. Make sure that you actually understand what you’re doing, how the system works and why it works, rather than just being able to assemble it. This will serve you far better in a real crevasse rescue scenario when the chips are down and not everything will be in your favor, -imperfect gear, angles, orientations etc.

The key? Practice, practice and more practice. Carrying the right stuff helps too though, see below.

Lightweight Crevasse Rescue Kit

• 2 x lightweight large volume snapgates - CAMP Photon Wires (30g)

• 1 x 120cm sling - 6mm-8mm dyneema

• 2 x Pre-tied prusik loops - 5mm/6mm accessory cord.

  OR

• 1 x Progress Capture Device w/ 1 x Pre-tied prusik loop - Edelrid Spoc (61g) is 14g lighter than the popular Petzl Micro Traxion, and cheaper too!

• 2 x Lightweight locking carabiners - These may/will be the same as your utility locking carabiners. The CAMP Photon Locker (43g), is an excellent choice.

• 1 x Round Stock Locking carabiner - You will likely be carrying this anyway as your belay carabiner.

• 1 x 8m of 6mm accessory cord.

Learnt something? You may enjoy our book ‘Self-Rescue for Climbers: The Essential Skills’.

Enjoyed it? Buy the No Thrills team a coffee to say thanks!