The Best Utility Locking Carabiner

Espresso Note

Read Time - 2 minutes

April 2020

On adventurous routes or in alpine terrain, gear should be as multifunctional as possible. Dedicated gear like belay carabiners are great, but as far as multifunctionality go, don’t really fit their bill due to their specific design features.

Instead, on adventurous routes, it's worth carrying utility locking carabiners, which can be repurposed off a device for a range of uses.

For a utility carabiner, look for light, but with a large internal volume. This lends a degree of HMS-functionality on half ropes and skinny singles, the kind of ropes you’ll be using in big terrain. And, you’ll especially appreciate this versatility in a rescue scenario.

Avoid any fancy auto-locking mechanism, this adds weight and increases the chance of this malfunctioning. Standard twist lock mechanisms can freeze solid shut. Black Diamond’s Magnetron technology is no better, and can scarily freeze open when the magnetic pads ice over.

The Petzl Attache (56g) and BD Vapourlock (52g) are pretty well matched, although the Vapourlock is a hair lighter a offers a fuller degree of HMS functionality on rope <9mm⌀. However, the CAMP Photon Lock is streets ahead. Not only is it a full function HMS like the Vapourlock but also shaves near enough 10g off the Vapourlock, weighing in at 43g. Not to mention its a CAMP product, so cheaper than in more fashionable competitors.

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