Where to boulder? Edinburgh
Edinburgh Bouldering Guide
Double Cap
Read Time - 8 minutes
Scotland’s capital has multiple world class facilities, so its no surprise that thousands in the city begin their climbing journey each year.
Beyond the modern comp-style gyms and chilly confines of the EICA, there is a wealth of fantastic outdoor bouldering within an hour’s drive of Edinburgh. Much of this is well suited to those bouldering in the low to mid grades, or those first making the switch to bouldering outdoors, and this article focuses on those areas.
Sunny evening soloing in Salisbury Crags’ South Quarry
Salisbury Crags Grade Distribution
f2+ - f4+/VB-V0 16 problems
f5 - f6A+/V1-V3 14 problems
f6B - f6C+/V4-V5 15 problems
f7A - f7B+/V6-V8 9 problems
Accessible Inner City Bouldering
Salisbury Crags South Quarry
The long expanse of Salisbury Crags is visible from anywhere in the city centre. Although climbing is banned on the majority of the crags, it is permitted in the South Quarry.
The ‘Black Wall ’ is home to a number of polished test pieces, but there are over 50 problems in total, and enjoyable bouldering can be had at all grades throughout the South Quarry. Many problems also have the option of being extended into moderate solo territory if that’s what you’re into.
All landings are flat and easily pad protected. Due to its southerly aspect, the South Quarry is relatively quick to dry after rain, although the ‘Black Wall ’ and ‘Little Black Wall ’ can stay damp after rain.
Must Do Problems
Àrd-na-Said f3/VB
The Long Stride Variation f4/V0
The Juggy Traverse f6A/V3
Roofer Traverse f6A+/V3
The Bulge f6B/V4
Black Wall Traverse f6C/V5
Black Wall Traverse Low f7A or f7B/V6 or V8
Unforsaken, f6A+/V3, one of the most aesthetic climbs at Gullane.
Gullane Grade Distribution
f2+ - f4+/VB-V0 10 problems
f5 - f6A+/V1-V3 27 problems
f6B - f6C+/V4-V5 6 problems
f7A/V6 3 problems
Seaside Ambiance
Gullane
Gullane has a high concentration of quality climbs. All the landings, except for the ‘King’s Chair’ boulder are above sand and easily pad protected. Those above the tide line are protected by soft golden sand, so some say you don’t even need a pad.
Gullane is accessible by car or public transport from Edinburgh city centre, and is in a picturesque coastal setting.
Sandstone is a soft and fragile rock, so please make sure it is dry before climbing. Some of the sectors are tidal, so make sure you check the tide times before leaving. The tidal sectors will not be climbable for a few hours either side of high tide.
Must Do Problems
Captain Insano f3/VB
The Whale f3+/VB
Crunchie Sit Start f6A/V3
Knotweed f6A/V3
Unforsaken f6A+/V3
Miniroof f6B
An t-Sliseag f6B+
Àrd-Ealain f7A
Classic Dyno, f5/V1, a contender for the most photogenic f5 in the UK.
Wolfcrag Quarry Grade Distribution
f2+ - f4+/VB-V0 12 problems
f5 - f6A+/V1-V3 42 problems
f6B - f6C+/V4-V5 23 problems
f7A - f7B/V6-V8 9 problems
Volume
Wolfcrag Quarry
Wolfcrag Quarry, in Bridge of Allan, is an excellent low to mid grade venue with 86 problems from f3-f7B. As a well established area, all the landings are good, although a pad is still advisable. The climbs are packed close together so it is ideal for circuits, or those making the leap to outdoor bouldering who need to get volume of outdoor moves in.
The rock is quarried greenstone, a sandstone which provides good friction. The majority of problems climb via chipped holds, but the climbs are high quality. The chipped holds themselves are of varying quality and polish.
Due to the slightly overhanging nature of the quarry walls and the tree canopy, the quarry stays largely dry during showers. It is relatively quick to dry after rain, but breaks and cracks do seep. Climbing can be enjoyed year round.
Must Do Problems
Corner & Arête f3+/VB
Classic Dyno f5/V1
Pod Central f5+/V2
Left Diagonal f6A/V3
Sloping Traverse Sit Start f6A+/V3
Experiments in Incest f6B/V4
Funky Munky f6B+/V4
Low Traverse f7A/V6
The Lightbulb, f6A/V3, at Bowden Doors, Northumberland, a 1 hour 45 minutes drive from Edinburgh city centre.
Notable Mentions
Agassiz Rock on Blackford Hill is a historic venue home to a number of testing eliminates and traverses. It is best for climbers operating in the high f6s/V4+ and above.
North Berwick Law, is often overlooked as a bouldering venue, with most climbers seeking out well bolted sport climbing in a sun trap. However, thanks to development effort over the summer of 2020, which even discovered an entirely new bouldering sector, it should now be on the radar of even dedicated boulderers.
Meanwhile, for those willing to walk for it, the Ben Ledi Boulders offer a large number of problems in varying styles and difficulties in a stunning highland situation, high on the side of Stank Glen.
Siccar Point on the Berwickshire coast is a remote feeling venue. It is home to a classic traverse problem Ìosal f7B/V8. It is a tidal venue, and some sectors are approached by water washed platforms. The concentration and number of climbs are fewer than Gullane, and it sees less traffic so some problems may be dirty.
Ravenscraig near Kirkcaldy in Fife is another coastal venue. The rock is a soft sandstone similar to Gullane. However, the number and quality of climbs is less extensive.
Northumberland boasts some of the finest rock in Britain, ‘fell sandstone’. Problems range from f3/VB to f8B+/V14. The closest crags such as Dovehole Boulders and Goat Crag are a little over an hour from Edinburgh. However, the more southerly crags are approximately a 2 hour drive from Edinburgh city centre. The best resource is the authoritative 2008 Northumberland Mountaineering Club guide, buy it here.
You may also enjoy our eBook ‘Bouldering Basics: A Handbook for Beginners’
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