Once a niche sub-genre for experienced climbers with hardened tendons, bizarre nutrition plans, and even more bizarre tights, bouldering has become pretty popular. Thanks, in large part, to the global roll out of bouldering gyms. For most new climbers, bouldering will be their introduction to the sport, and for many their primary climbing pursuit thereafter.

The largest hurdle for many climbers making the leap to climbing outdoors will be buying a pad. The seemingly vast array of different colourful pieces of foam all commanding eye watering price tags is bewildering. But, given the importance of this piece of gear, its worth buying nice, getting it right, to avoid buying twice. This article looks at:

• Foam Type

• Thickness

• Fold Type

• Size

• Durability

• Additional features.

Foam Type

Boulder pads are constructed from multiple layers of PU (polyurethane) and PE (polyethylene) foam. The layers are of differing hardnesses. Open-cell PU foam is soft, and cushions the fall. PU is usually found in the middle and bottom of the pad. Closed-cell PE foam is firmer, and dissipates the energy of a fall. This foam can be found on the top of the pad.

This layering is essential, as without the closed-cell foam, it would be like falling on a pillow; very soft but not actually providing any support. An effective pad is both cushioning and supportive. Brands use different lay-ups create different pads. A softer pad will more effectively conform to an uneven ground surface, but provide less supportive cushioning. Over its lifespan, closed-cell foam loses its rigidity, becoming soft and less effective. Cheaper pads are often made of lower quality foam, and so more quickly deteriorate. It is possible to treat softer foams during the manufacturing process to function as a firmer foam, but this will quickly break down, leaving a soft unsurportive pad.

Not all pads are good standalone pads. Some are better as auxiliary pads to complement a ‘daily driver’ pad, often these incorporate atypical foam layups. The Mad Rock R3, is one such example. Made of baffled EVA foam, it is soft and designed to warp and cover protruding features or gutters on a base of DD pads. Other examples include the Organic Blubber, Half and Briefcase pads.

Eventually, even the best quality foam will break down and need replacing. Most good quality pads can now be unzipped and refilled. Organic sell replacement foam for their pads pre-cut. Other brands will need to be returned to the manufacturer. Whilst it is nice to have this option, in practice the outer fabric will have worn through by the time the foam is shot, so buying a new pad is often the most expedient option.

Thickness

For a good first pad, or a DD to build your quiver around, look for a thickness at least 7.5cm/3”. Most standard pads range from 7.5cm/3” to 10cm/4”. Thinner pads are available, but these usually fall into the category of auxiliary pads. In addition to covering uneven features or joins in pads, these thin pads are useful for protecting sit or low starts. Highball pads usually come in at 12.5cm/5” thickness or more. This thickness is often paired with a greater pad surface area, and so are often a good choice for a first pad as they provide the security to boulder without spotters, and give you a lot of ground coverage off the bat. However, this added thickness can be a problem on low or sit start problems. So, it is often a wise move to buy a small sit pad like a Petzl Nimbo or Organic Slider to complement your main pad. This can be carried by sliding it inside the folded pad.

Fold Type

Broadly speaking, fold types can be divided into one of two classes, hinge and taco style.

Most hinge pads have a single hinge in the centre of the pad, some pads have three segments divided by two hinges. The problem with hinges is that they create a ‘dead area’ along the join which offers no padding. Whilst these triple pads provide a greater surface, they also provide a second ‘dead area’ along the other hinge.

Manufacturers do integrate features to combat this, such as velcro on the underside of the pad to keep the two segments together. Angled hinge designs also go some way to eliminate the ‘dead area’ effect. Alternatively the ‘dead area’ problem can be combated with an auxiliary thin pad.

Taco style pads can be folded and cinched for carrying, whilst being fully laid out without any joins or hinges for climbing. This provides an even coverage, and equal cushioning over the full surface area of the pad. Being a single pad without any folds they pad bumpy uneven surfaces better as well. However, due to the way the taco style fold works, it limits the size of the pad. Truly huge highball pads like the Black Diamond Mondo and Organic 5” Big Pad, have to use a hinge style fold.

Generally, taco style pads are superior to hinge style joins. Most brands are now moving towards taco style designs.

Size

Size matters; it does.

Unsurprisingly, the larger the surface area of the pad, the greater area you protect. However, this can come at a price. In the case of triple pads, this is at the expense of a thinner pad and two hinges. Meanwhile taco style pads are limited by the size of their fold style, but can still be cumbersome. Consider your typical approach, carrying a big highball pad long distances over rough ground might burn you out before you get to your project.

Highball pads like a Black Diamond Mondo can offer security for a solo session. But, if you regularly boulder in groups, a large pad may be overkill. Instead, opt for a generous mid-size pad like a Black Diamond Drop Zone or a Petzl Cirro. These pads incorporate the benefits of a taco style design, with good ground coverage in a more manageable package. You can pool your pads to create a good spread beneath your climbs.

Durability

The outside of boulder pads are made from nylon. Nylon fabrics are graded in deniers, expressed as a number followed by a capital D. Top shelf boulder pads from reputable brands like Black Diamond, Petzl and Organic, are covered with 1000D+ nylon. This is sometimes referred to as ‘ballistic’ grade, however this is just a marketing term, not a classification or standard. The lower the number the less durable the nylon. Some brands choose a lower denier nylon in the 600D-900D coated with a PU plastic to increase durability.

Well designed pads include features to prevent unnecessary wear to high use areas. Petzl and Moon pads feature a second panel to cover the carry straps keeping them clean, and dirt free, as well as protected. Snap pads feature velcro pull away straps. Whilst this protects the straps, it doesn’t protect the high use back panel from additional wear.

Look for a sturdy metal closure system and metal zips. These are the most common features to break on a pad as they are subject to the most haphazard use, at the beginning of a session when you’re eager to climb, or at the end when you’re tired.

Additional Features

Lots of pads include additional features to draw you in. Patches of textured felt-like materials for wiping your shoes on, storage pockets, or systems for hooking up to other pads on the ground or when carried. Although these are nice to have features, do not let them sway your purchasing decision. You can bring a small doormat to wipe your shoes with you carried inside the pad when folded. Meanwhile, storage pockets are largely redundant as well, a small backpack or stuff sack with essentials in can be slid inside a folded pad for carrying. The fold and stuff strategy works better with taco style designs that hinged pads.

The Answer

Bouldering is a simple art, a simple pad is often best.

A generous mid sized taco style pad, with 1000D+ or treated nylon, metal fastening and closure features, is an excellent first pad to build a quiver around.

Worthy Contenders

• Petzl Cirro

• Black Diamond Drop Zone

• Moon Warrior

• Snap Guts

This article is an extract from our eBook ‘Bouldering Basics: A Handbook for Beginners’.

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